NEXT TO AIR, WATER IS THE MOST IMPORTANT REQUIREMENT FOR LIFE. MAKE SURE YOU ALWAYS HAVE ENOUGH ON HAND. THINK WATER STORAGE.
Water that we take for granted when things are normal becomes absolutely
critical in times of an emergency. This is an area you can't afford to
overlook in your preparedness preparations. Fact: "The human body can't
survive even one week without water".
In general terms, the human body requires 4 times as much
water as food. Therefore, for every pound of food consumed
in one day, it is necessary to consume about 4 pounds of
water (which is about 1/2 gallon).
NOTE:
The easiest way to store the bulk of your water storage is in 55 gallon
polyethylene (plastic) water storage drums (FDA approved for storing
drinking water). You simply fill the drums up with your own tap water.
The drums offered by 21st Century Food Storage are the best industry has
to offer, and are designed to have weight stacked on them when filled
with water, this allows you to stack your food on top of them and save
space while keeping your food storage and water storage together. We
recommend two 55 gallon drums of water storage per person, this along
with collecting "rain" water should be suitable. Before filling a drum
with water, make sure the NPT plug (fine thread; non-white cap) is not
positioned next to a wall etc. It should be on the top front side of the
drum for easy access, because this is the bung hole that the drum pumps
thread into.
Remember also that you have several sources of water already in your home that
can be tapped in an emergency such as your hot water heater, toilet tanks
(don't use water from a tank that contains colored disinfectant, it is poisonous),
water pipes, ice in the freezer, etc. Water is relatively
inexpensive to store and certainly not difficult to do - but certainly the
time to store is now.
It is also a good idea to have a water filter in addition to your water
storage drums. This would allow you to purify dirty water from lakes, rivers,
creeks, etc. 21st Century Food Storage offers The British Berkefeld® Emergency
Water & Camping Filter - the original gravity filtration system used by
thousands of missionaries worldwide. No water pressure or pumping required.
High tech ceramic filter system. Time tested for over 140 years. The "Super
Sterasyl" filters reduce up to 99.99% of particulates, cysts, parasites and
pathogenic bacteria. See "Water Filtration" in our on-line store for details.
EMERGENCY WATER STORAGE
Various sources recommend home storage of a two week supply of water. The
amount often
recommended is seven gallons per person for drinking and food preparation, and
another seven
gallons per person for other limited uses such as hand washing, teeth brushing
and dish washing
(total fourteen gallons per person for two weeks). It should be noted that
this amount is enough
for sustenance purposes only, two quarts for drinking and two quarts for
cleaning and bathing etc.
per day. When you consider that a household normally uses in excess of 50
gallons of water per
day for drinking, bathing, laundry, dishes, flushing the toilet etc., this
isn't a lot of water. If you have the room to store more you will probably
want to do so. Both glass and plastic containers are commonly used for water
storage at home. Containers should be clean and sanitary. Glass containers are
breakable and somewhat heavy compared to plastic, but they are not permeable
to vapors and gases, the amount of leaching (dissolving) of chemicals from
glass into water is insignificant. Plastic containers are lightweight and
substantially more resistant to breakage than glass.
If plastic containers are used, care should be taken to assure that they are
made of plastic approved for food contact by the Federal Food and Drug
Administration. Polyethylene plastic is approved for food contact and is
commonly used for containers of various sizes, including large 55 gallon
drums. Certain types of plastic containers are not intended for food contact
(such as vinyl plastic waterbeds, or trash containers) and may leach
undesirable chemicals into stored water. Leaching of chemicals from approved
plastics is negligible.
WATER STORAGE DISINFECTION
For long-term water storage, tap water should be sterilized or
disinfected in
thoroughly cleaned plastic or glass containers. Water can be
chemically disinfected for long-term storage by treating each gallon
with 16 drops
of liquid chlorine bleach (Clorox or Purex type bleaches, containing
4%
to 6% sodium hypochlorite; do not use scented bleach). One teaspoon of
bleach disinfects five gallons of water. Three tablespoons will
disinfect 55 gallons of water. This level of treatment will kill
bacteria and viruses and prevent the growth of microorganisms during
storage. Also check with your local water plant for any additional
information they may have for you.
Water stored in plastic containers should not be stored near
gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances. Vapors from these
substances could permeate the plastic and affect the water. Thick-walled
polyethylene containers are significantly less permeable to vapors than
are thin walled containers. Be certain, when selecting a water storage
container, that it has a tight fitting cap or lid to prevent entrance of
contaminants and evaporation of water. Because sunlight has an adverse
effect on plastic, water should be stored away from direct exposure to
sunlight. Store in a cool, dry area with no sunlight, like the basement.
Studies show sterilized or disinfected water, stored in clean, food-approved
containers with secure lids or caps should be safe for use even after many
years of storage. Replacement of stored water with fresh water should be
necessary only if the stored water becomes contaminated in some way or if the
container should begin to leak. Be certain to label each container so there
will be no question about its contents. Include the date and information on
the method of disinfection used. We recommend changing properly stored water
every three to five years.
Rain Barrels
How to Install Rain Barrels
Install Rain Barrels
Properly
installed rain barrels save water and money, and help your garden grow.
Typically, rain barrels are made from recycled 55-gallon barrels. The
top and bottom have fitted spigots. Inside the barrel you will find a
screen fitted over an aluminum louver. Rain barrels come with five-foot
hoses with shutoff fittings. Vessels are filled using the hose on the
rain barrel, and the water is used to water the garden. In order to
install a rain barrel, your home must have gutters and a downspout. If your home is lacking these, you must install them first.
Instructions
1
Connect the rain barrel's universal downspout adapter to the gutter's downspout tube.
2
Make a rain barrel stand about six inches tall and level.
Use cinder blocks or some other hard surface. Rain barrels are heavy
when full and can fall over if their base is not level.
3
Mark the downspout tube at the appropriate height and cut it
with a hacksaw. Make sure to leave six extra inches so the tube has
room to fit down inside the barrel.
4
Slide the rain barrel up into the downspout. Use a pair of
pliers to crimp the edges of the downspout if it doesn't fit easily
into the barrel opening.
5
Direct the overflow hose toward the lawn or a landscaping area so runoff can occur harmlessly, if necessary.
Rainwater harvesting systems can be as simple as directing gutters to a
lidded garbage can or as complex as a concrete cistern, roof washer and
filtration system. But whatever your application, rest assured that
you'll be getting some of the purest — and cheapest — water around.
WHY RAINWATER?
Rainwater can be used for potable water
(drinking, cooking, bathing) or nonpotable uses such as landscape
irrigation, livestock watering and washing. Collecting and using
rainwater has numerous benefits, ranging from improved water quality to
reduced stress on underground aquifers.
"All water is rainwater,"
rainwater systems enthusiast and author Richard Heinichen is fond of
saying. And indeed, he's right: All our water, whether sucked from an
aquifer, river or well, or harvested from a rooftop, once was
cloud-borne.
But after it falls from the sky, rainwater percolates
through the earth and rocks, where it picks up minerals and salts. As
Heinichen points out, in many cases, this water also collects other
contaminants such as industrial chemicals, pesticides and fecal coliform
bacteria found in the soil. Captured before it hits the
ground, rainwater is free of many pollutants that plague surface and
underground water supplies and, according to the Texas Water Development Board, "almost always exceeds [the quality] of ground or surface water."
Rainwater
typically has very low hardness levels, which reduces the use of soaps
and detergents, and eliminates the need for a water softener. Fewer
minerals also saves wear and tear on your plumbing fixtures.
Stored
rainwater also is a good standby in times of emergencies such as power
outages or during periods of extreme drought when wells dry up. In some
areas where water supplies may not be available or dependable (or may be
prohibitively expensive), collected rainwater is sometimes the least
expensive option and can easily be less expensive than bottled water.
Rainwater harvesting reduces the impact on aquifers, lessening the
demand on ecologically sensitive or threatened aquifers. Collecting some
of the rainwater falling on impervious surfaces also minimizes erosion
and flooding: On some lots, as much as 50 percent of the land area is
covered by roof surface.
Because it doesn't have to be treated,
pumped or distributed through a complex network, harvested rainwater
saves energy and the use of chemicals. Some municipal water users
sometimes switch to harvested rainwater as a way to avoid chlorination
and fluoridation treatments.
CAPTURE THE CLOUD JUICE
Rain
barrels, the simplest rainwater collection devices, can save thousands
of gallons of tap water each year, and save money and energy, too. (Lawn
and garden watering typically consume 40 percent of total household
water use in the summer.) Your plants also will love the warm, soft,
chlorine-free rainwater.
Ready-made rain barrels, most commonly made from UV-protected plastic
and fitted with lids and screens, are available in capacities ranging
from 50 to 65 gallons. With a spigot and carefully fit top and screen,
wooden wine barrels and recycled food-grade plastic barrels also can be
made into water catchment devices. Maryland's Green Building Program Web
site provides step-by-step plans on making your own rain barrel with a
recycled barrel, a vinyl hose, PVC couplings and a screen grate.
The best barrels are made of an opaque material (metal, wood or
colored plastic) to prevent light transmission and inhibit algae and
bacterial growth. To stop barrels from becoming mosquito breeding
grounds, fasten a tight-fitting top to them, and screen the ends of
downspouts leading into the barrels. As an added measure of protection,
add mosquito dunks (which release Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis,
a biological agent toxic to mosquito larvae) to your barrels (but make
sure to label barrels "Not Potable Water"). Tahoma, Washington, resident
Dan Borba, who has been harvesting rainwater since 1999, adds a
tablespoon of vegetable oil to his barrels' stored rainwater. The oil,
he says, coats the water's surface and kills larvae by depriving them of
oxygen.
HOME SYSTEMS
For rainwater harvesting systems to
be practical as the sole household water source, average annual rainfall
of at least 24 inches is recommended, says Gail Vittori of the Center for Maximum Potential Building Systems in
Austin, Texas. The entire eastern half of the United States, from the
southern tip of Texas to northwestern Minnesota, meets this requirement,
as does much of California, western Oregon and Washington, significant
pockets throughout the Rocky Mountains and even areas in Arizona.
If
you just want a system to offset your water use, a small system usually
can be designed for a few thousand dollars. Sole and Maitri Ersson of
Portland, Oregon, installed their 1,500-gallon rainwater system, which
includes a plastic cistern, well pump, roof washer and UV sterilizer,
for less than $1,500. A state-of-the-art rainwater harvesting system
(adequately sized for a typical family and with sophisticated filtering
and purification components) can cost $15,000 to $20,000.
The cost
of your system depends on whether you have an appropriate roof surface
or have to replace your roof, how big and what kind of cistern you
choose, and what level of filtration and purity you require.
CONSERVE FIRST
The
average American uses about 100 gallons of water per day for showers,
toilet flushing, clothes washing, cooking and lawn watering. By simply
switching to low flush, 1.6-gallon toilets, low-flow showerheads and
faucets, horizontal-axis washers and other water-saving appliances, you
may be able to reduce your water use by half or more. Conserving water
means that you will need less storage capacity, making it possible to
buy a smaller (and more inexpensive) cistern. Similarly, if you live in
an area that receives a steady supply of rainfall throughout the year,
you may only need to size your cistern for a few weeks' worth of water.
But if you're in an area that experiences frequent drought conditions,
or in an area with sporadic rainfall and a decidedly dry season, plan
accordingly. Experts recommend planning for half your region's expected
rainfall, while projecting twice as much water use.
SIZING YOUR SYSTEM
First, calculate your water usage. For
residential systems, this includes toilet flushing, bathing, clothes
washing, dishwashing and outdoor watering. With water-conserving
plumbing fixtures and little or no outside watering, per-person usage
can range from 55 to 75 gallons per day. If you're already connected to
municipal water, study your monthly water bills to get your average
household usage.
Next, determine rainwater availability in your
area. A quick estimate of rainwater collection can be made based on your
region's annual rainfall, but more thorough calculations will examine
average, minimum and maximum rainfall on a per month basis. This
information should be available from the National Weather Service or
a local meteorological station. In areas with less than 24 inches of
rainfall per year, building a large enough collection area and cistern
to provide adequate water may not be feasible.
Actual collection
calculations are made based on the available roof area (the projected
horizontal area of the roof surface used for collection) and an
"efficiency coefficient," which accounts for the fact that not all the
rainwater falling on the roof gets into the cistern. (See "Calculating
Catchment Capability," below.)
Size the cistern to provide enough water storage for reasonably expected dry periods. The Texas Guide to Rainwater Harvesting includes
detailed information on carrying out all of these calculations,
including an advanced method that factors in storage capacity.
CATCHMENT, IF YOU CAN
The
most common rainwater catchment system is a roof. Typically, this is
the roof of the building where the water will be used, though it may be a
separate building designed expressly for rainwater harvesting (a "water
barn"). Nearly all types of roofs have been — and are being — used for
rainwater collection, but some are better than others.
The best
roofing material for rainwater catchment is uncoated stainless steel or
factory-enameled galvanized steel with a baked-enamel, certified
lead-free finish. With any metal coating, ask the manufacturer whether
the coating contains heavy metals (red paint used on metal often
contained lead in the past). Any existing metal roof being used for a
potable water catchment system should be tested for lead.
Wood
shakes, concrete or clay tiles, and asphalt shingles are more likely
than other materials to support the growth of mold, algae, bacteria and
moss, which can potentially contaminate water supplies. Treated wood
shingles may leach toxic preservatives, and asphalt shingles may leach
small amounts of petroleum compounds. In addition to the health
concerns, a porous or rough roof surface holds back some of the water
that would otherwise make it into the cistern. Asphalt roofing has a
"collection efficiency" of about 85 percent while enameled steel has a
collection efficiency of more than 95 percent. With asphalt roofing,
more of the rainwater stays on the roof in a typical rainstorm (i.e.,
the roof stays wet), though the actual percentage will depend on the
duration of the storm.
To be most effective, the roof should be fully exposed and away from
overhanging tree branches. This reduces the risk of contamination from
rotting leaves or droppings from birds and insects in the trees. If
possible, avoid using roofs of buildings that rely on wood heat, as the
smoke particles and soot deposited on the roof may contain polynuclear
aromatic hydrocarbons and other hazardous materials.
WASH YOUR ROOF
Between rainstorms, various pollutants can
settle out of the air and onto your roof. Many rainwater harvesting
systems incorporate a roof washer to keep these contaminants from
entering the cistern. Roof washers capture and discard the first several
gallons of rainwater during a storm before conveying the rest to the
cistern. A very simple roof-wash system can be made out of a 6- or
8-inch vertical PVC or polyethylene pipe installed beneath the gutter,
with an inlet just above each downspout to the cistern. Commercial roof
washers range in price from $100 for a water diverter (available by mail
order only from SafeRain, an Australian company) to $600 for a separate
roof washer.
CISTERN
The cistern is the single largest
investment for most rainwater harvesting systems. A cistern can range
from a recycled whiskey barrel under the eaves of a house (suitable for
watering plants) to a large aboveground or buried tank that will hold
30,000 gallons or more. Cisterns are constructed out of a wide range of
materials.
Most cisterns are cylindrical for optimal
strength-to-weight ratios. A cistern with a 10,000 gallon capacity (a
reasonable minimum for a family of four depending solely on rainwater)
might be 12 feet in diameter and 12 feet deep, for example. No matter
what the material, most experts recommend keeping the tank tightly
closed to prevent evaporation and to keep out sunlight (which will
support algae growth) and animals (insects, rodents and amphibians).
Cisterns often are designed with settling compartments that keep
sediment from mixing with the water. The cistern also needs an overflow
pipe for additional rain that falls after the cistern is full. If the
rainwater harvesting system is the only water source, it makes sense to
locate the cistern so that it can be filled by a water tank truck if
necessary.
In cold climates, protect the cistern from freezing by
burying it underground or incorporating it into a basement. In northern
climates where rainwater is the sole water source, it may be necessary
to oversize the cistern to provide carry-over during a significant
portion of the winter when snow falls instead of rain.
ROUTE YOUR RAINWATER
Rainwater
falling on the roof can be captured and conveyed to the cistern via
gutters and downspouts constructed of roll-formed aluminum, galvanized
steel, PVC (vinyl) or copper. As with the roofing, make sure that
lead-based solder was not used in gutter or downspout connections.
Downspouts should be designed to handle 1 1/4 inches of rain in a
10-minute period. Depending on the cistern location, 4-inch PVC or
polyethylene piping may be used to convey water around the building to
the cistern. A continuous 1/4-inch mesh screening and basket strainers
at the downspouts help catch leaves and other debris. Gretchen Rupp,
director of the Montana Water Center at Montana State University, recommends providing a downspout for each 50 feet of gutter run.
If the rainwater collection and storage system is located uphill from
where the water will be used, gravity-flow conveyance might be possible,
but the verti cal distance between storage and use is rarely enough to
achieve adequate pressure for modern household plumbing. For most
rainwater harvesting systems, a pump and pressure tank are required for
water delivery. Richard Heinichen uses a Grundfos MQ on-demand pump,
eliminating the need for a pressure tank.
WATER TREATMENT SYSTEMS
Preliminary filtration and a
roof-wash system provide the first line of defense against
contamination. Rainwater harvesting systems supplying potable water also
should include measures to treat water before use. Several treatment
options, including microfiltration, UV sterilization and ozonation, are
available. Many experts agree that filtration and UV treatment provide
adequate protection, making ozonation unnecessary.
Most systems
use a combination of physical filters, which remove particulates, and a
UV-light chamber, which kills bacteria and other organisms by exposing
them to high-energy ultraviolet light.
Water treatment systems can
add significantly to the initial cost as well as operating costs of a
rainwater system. A UV sterilization system costs from $300 to $1,000 or
more. Because the lamp generating the UV light needs to be left on all
the time, annual electricity consumption can be significant. An
ozonation system can cost more than $1,200 and can consume as much as
6,000 kilowatt-hours per year (primarily to operate a circulating pump
that mixes the ozone in the cistern 12 hours per day).
A less
expensive option is to treat water with chlorine or iodine, as is
typically done with municipal water. The most common chemical added is
chlorine in the form of sodium hypochlorite, which is available in
liquid form. Household bleach, which is 5 percent sodium hypochlorite,
is commonly used. The downsides to chlorination are the taste of the
treated water and health concerns about harmful chemicals that could
result from the added chlorine. In the presence of organic matter,
chlorinated hydrocarbons, which are suspected carcinogens, may be
formed.
OPERATION
"The privilege of [water] independence
comes with responsibility," says Heinichen. "You are the sanitation
engineer, the maintenance mechanic, the troubleshooting technician. You
can't point the finger at some hapless bureaucrat if you let your pipes
freeze or you forget to change your filters or you don't keep your
gutters clean or can't learn to conserve during dry spells."
To
keep a rainwater harvesting system functioning properly, periodic
maintenance is required — this is particularly important with systems
used for potable water. Gutters and downspouts need to be kept free of
leaves and other detritus. Roof-wash water may need draining after each
storm. The cistern may need periodic cleaning or repairs if cracks or
leaks develop. Filters and LTV lamps need to be replaced on a regular
schedule. Pumps and ozonation systems may need occasional servicing. All
piping and connections should be inspected periodically. Finally,
occasional testing should be considered to ensure that suitable water
quality is being achieved.
Tank Types
Galvanized steel
is probably the most common cistern material. Off-the-shelf farm tanks
are available up to about 3,000 gallons. Because most farm tanks are not
approved for potable water, some rainwater catchment system designers
recommend coating the inside with an American Water Works
Association-approved epoxy-based sealer. Larger, custom, steel tanks can
be manufactured with galvanizing that is FDA approved for potable
water.,
Concrete tanks are generally site-built using forms,
though smaller pre-cast tanks are available. High-strength concrete
(7,000 psi) is recommended for watertightness. Such a tank can be
integrated into the basement, with the tank sides serving as the
foundation walls. Tanks inside a building may serve a secondary function
as thermal storage.
Ferrocement tanks are made by spraying or plastering
a cement mortar over a wire mesh form. Wall thicknesses as thin as an
inch can be produced, depending on the materials and the skill of the
contractor. Because cracks can develop, some maintenance and repairs can
be expected. Ferrocement is potentially one of the least expensive
cistern materials. Mortared stone was traditionally used in some areas
for cisterns. Construction cost is high, but resulting cisterns can be
highly attractive. Fiberglass tanks are available with FDA approval for
potable water. They are relatively inexpensive, lightweight and
available in large sizes (up to about 10,000 gallons). Polyethylene tanks
are available with FDA approval for potable water in sizes up to
several thousand gallons. They are lightweight, easily moved, and can be
used above or below ground (tanks designed for burial may be more
expensive). Durable wood, such as redwood or cypress, also can be used
for tanks. If properly built, such tanks are highly durable — often
lasting 50 years or longer. Salvaged wood such as old wine vats and
whiskey-aging casks may be available. A polyethylene liner
over a non-watertight frame usually provides the lowest-cost cistern
option, though it also is the least permanent. Liners for cisterns
should be 20 or 30 mils thick and made of a UV-stabilized, FDA approved
material.
Calculating Catchment Capability
If you're
using a roof to harvest rain, the size of your catchment area is the
square footage of the building's footprint. Each square foot of
collection area should yield 0.6 gallons of water per inch of rainfall,
although some water will be lost to evaporation and leakage, which is
factored in by an efficiency factor of 0.8.
To determine your roof's water-harvesting potential:
1. Multiply the square feet of collection area by 0.6 gallons (per square foot of area).
2. Take this total times 0.8 (the efficiency factor).
3.
Multiply the total from Step 2 by your area's annual average rainfall
(in inches). You can find the average precipitation in your area by
visiting the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. This data chart gives monthly and yearly averages of data collected for specific cities during the past 30 years.
For
our sample calculation, we used Austin, Texas, which receives an annual
average rainfall of 32 inches. From 2,500 square feet of collection
area, about 38,400 gallons of water per year, or 105 gallons per day,
can be harvested.
To more accurately determine how much storage capacity you need and what
kind of demand your system can withstand, a monthly balance calculation
is necessary. The Texas Guide to Rainwater Harvesting gives step-by-step instructions on figuring this calculation.
Water that we take for granted when things are normal becomes absolutely
critical in times of an emergency. This is an area you can't afford to
overlook in your preparedness preparations. Fact: "The human body can't
survive even one week without water".
In general terms, the human body requires 4 times as much
water as food. Therefore, for every pound of food consumed
in one day, it is necessary to consume about 4 pounds of
water (which is about 1/2 gallon).
(don't use water from a tank that contains colored disinfectant, it is poisonous),
water pipes, ice in the freezer, etc. Water is relatively
inexpensive to store and certainly not difficult to do - but certainly the
time to store is now.
use scented bleach). One teaspoon of
bleach disinfects five gallons of water. Three tablespoons will
disinfect 55 gallons of water. This level of treatment will kill
bacteria and viruses and prevent the growth of microorganisms during
storage. Also check with your local water plant for any additional
information they may have for you.
No comments:
Post a Comment